The taste of winter

The pollution may have destroyed the Delhi winter; but there are still some treats to enjoy

There was a time when I used to be ecstatic at the thought of the approaching Delhi winter. There were bonfires to organize on cold evenings, sunny afternoon brunches to attend, picnics to enjoy with family and friends. Walks in the gentle afternoon sun were a particular delight. And there was something particularly life-affirming about getting up on a chilly morning and sipping a steaming cup of coffee while watching the mist clear.

 

Those days are long gone. Now I dread the arrival of winter because it is the season when pollution levels in the capital reach stratospheric levels. And instead of heading out to enjoy the great outdoors, I have to hunker down in my room with two air-purifiers on at full blast to make sure that my asthma doesn’t get triggered by the foul air. The smog outside lasts through the day with the sun barely managing to peek through, and heading out for even a brief period seems like a punishment rather than a pleasure.

 

So, are there any joys left of a Delhi winter? Well, since you ask, the only thing that makes the season worth its while is the food. I have always been a great believer in seasonal eating and this is the time when my perennial favourites hit the market. Here, in no particular order of importance, are just some of them:

 

·       Sarson da Saag: It is always a momentous occasion in my household when I make my first sarson da saag of the season. It requires copious quantities of ghee and ginger; lashings of the creamiest white butter; leavened with the heat of some dried red chillies in the tarka. The makki di roti that accompanies it is softened with some grated mooli and gobhi in the dough. And it’s served up with some good old-fashioned gur. I usually make enough saag to last us a week; and then, I just rinse and repeat until the sarson season is over.

·       Alu Methi: If I had to choose a favourite vegetable, it would be methi, without a doubt. And there is no denying that alu and methi is a match made in heaven: the plump softness of the potato takes on the slightly bitter edge of the methi to create an earthy dish that is truly satisfying in the bitter cold.

·       Bathua: Some people like making a saag of this leafy vegetable, but I like it best in a creamy raita. Just boil the leaves with a pinch of salt until tender, squeeze the excess water out, add it to some salted dahi with a dash of red chilli and freshly roasted and ground cumin (onions are strictly optional). 

·       Moongphali and santara: There is something magical about sitting in the winter sun – no matter how weak it is! – and slowly unfurling an orange from its peel, removing the strings until its glistening core is revealed, and then popping every segment into the mouth where it explodes like a flavour bomb. Every mouthful of orange should ideally be alternated with a handful of freshly-shelled peanuts roasted in sand so that they have a salty edge to them. That mixture of sweet and salty is, for me, the taste of a Delhi winter.

 

There is something in the air...

Yeah, you guessed right, it’s pollution — and it’s not just a Delhi problem any more

There was a time when I used to fly to Mumbai (while Delhi was engulfed in thick winter fog) just to see blue skies and breathe some fresh, unpolluted air. Those days are long gone, alas. 

This winter when I travelled to Mumbai, it was to the same grey skies that prevailed over Delhi. Thanks to a largely unregulated construction boom, a miasma of dust and pollutants hung over the Maximum City, making it look like a dystopian hell from the future. Nearly everyone I met had a hacking cough and doctors reported an influx of patients with some pulmonary problem or the other. A quick look at my air pollution app proved what I had suspected ever since I landed: the pollution levels in Mumbai were 

worse than those in Delhi. 

But you know what was worse than the pollution? It was the apathy. 

When pollution levels hit the high mark in Delhi, everyone acts as if there is a national emergency. Prime time debates on television discuss the problem night after night. Newspaper headlines bemoan the polluted air in increasingly hysterical tones. The state government is eventually goaded into taking some kind of action, even if the benefit of this is entirely illusory. For instance, diesel cars are taken off the roads. Odd-even schemes are launched to lessen the number of cars on the road. Construction is banned for weeks on end to get a handle on the problem. 

And that’s just at the macro level. At a micro level, every inhabitant of the national capital scrambles to find an air purifier that suits his or her budget. Offices agree on a work from home policy on days when the pollution is at the worst. And so on. 

But this time in Mumbai, I found that air pollution was just about beginning to register as an issue. Sure, television media in India is very Delhi-centric and tends to ignore stories emerging from other metros, so there were no daily prime time debates on the subject. But city newspapers were starting to focus on pollution, even though it was rarely the main headline. And the only time the state government banned construction to curb pollution levels was when there was a G 20 meeting scheduled in the city. Once that was over, it was business as usual. 

But why single out Mumbai? I was in Kolkata recently, and a quick look at my air quality app showed that the pollution levels here were just marginally lower than those in Delhi. There was the same grey haze enveloping the city; my eyes stung and watered when i ventured out; and my asthma was triggered within hours of landing at the airport. 

Sadly, over the past few years, air pollution has ceased to be a Delhi problem and mutated into an India problem. Open an air quality map and you will see practically all of north India depicted in red, to indicate dangerously high levels of air pollution. But though this is undoubtedly a national issue, we have yet to see a national campaign waged against this bane of our collective existence. 

Instead, we look for temporary fixes. Wearing N 95 masks to protect us against pollution (rather than Covid). Running air purifiers round the clock in our homes and offices. Exercising indoors rather than heading outdoors for a jog. Taking a break in a hill station or a beach resort to breathe some healthy air for a change. 

Sadly, that’s like putting a bandaid on a gunshot wound. It’s simply not going to work. 

Winter is coming

And I could not be more delighted…

 

Growing up in Calcutta, I was always overcome with excitement when the shiuli tree near my house started flowering. That was the first sign that Pujo was coming, and that four days of festivities were in my immediate future. These days I live in Delhi, and there is no shiuli tree to remind me of the arrival of Pujo. But all is not lost. There is an enormous Saptaparni (also known as Alstonia, or even Devil’s tree) tree overhanging my balcony, whose flowering heralds the beginning of winter in Delhi.

 

Last night, as I returned home late after dinner, I was stopped in my tracks by a heady scent that told me that, yes, winter was just around the corner. Notwithstanding the late hour, I stepped out on my balcony, and settled down on my wicker chair, just breathing in the sweet perfume of the flowers. For me, that is the scent of the Delhi winter, the season that I long for all year round. 

 

Yes, I know, Delhi winters are not what they used to be. There is the ever-present specter of pollution, as the farmers in neighbouring Punjab set fire to the stubble in their fields in what has become a depressing annual ritual. The Diwali crackers – set off by idiots who clearly have a death wish – only add to the horrific miasma hanging over the city. Combine this with vehicular pollution and the cold weather which makes all the pollutants sink to the bottom of the atmosphere, and you have a perfect poisonous cocktail that can take years off a person’s life.

 

I know all that. And God knows, I suffer with everyone else, perhaps even more so because of my chronic asthma that is triggered in this season. But, but, but…on the rare occasions when the skies finally clear and the haze fades to expose a clear blue sky, there is nothing quite so beautiful as a crisp winter day in Delhi. 

 

So, what’s the best way to make the most of days like these – especially given how rare they have become?

 

Well, for me it all begins with a winter special breakfast. Crisp aloo parathas, smeared liberally with homemade white butter, washed down with cups of milky tea, all served on the corner of the balcony that gets the morning sun. It’s hard to get any work done after that, because, food coma. But honestly, it’s well worth taking the morning off to indulge every once in a while.

 

Other winter staples make an appearance at lunch and dinner: aloo-methi subzi, sarson ka saag, makki ki roti, bathua raita, and so much more. This is the season to indulge your taste buds, and to pile on an extra layer of fat to deal with the cold winds of winter. 

 

Talking of layers, this is also the season to air all your winter staples that have been skulking in the back of your wardrobe all year. It’s time to wear those super-soft luxurious cashmere sweaters, drape those butter-smooth pashmina shawls, and pull them all together with tailored coats that give a polished edge to your look. 

 

Once you are all layered up, and have pulled on a pair of comfy boots, it’s time to head out to enjoy the great outdoors. It could just be a stroll through Khan Market, stopping for a cappuccino and a macaroon along the way. It could be a guided tour through such historical sites as Humayun’s Tomb or the Red Fort. Or it could simply be a walk in the park, enjoying the crisp breeze blowing your face, and feasting your eyes on the seasonal blooms that brighten up the greenery at this time of year.

 

Wherever you head and whatever you do, remember to make the most of perfect winter days. These days they are few and far between. Before you know it, the temperatures will begin to rise again, and the sizzling summer will be upon us. And it will be a long wait before the Saptaparni flowers again.

Every breath you take

Is reducing your life as the pollution season descends upon us. So, what’s the best way to cope?

It’s that time of the year again. The papers are full of pictures of paddy fields in Punjab being scorched by farmers, with the smoke wafting over to the national capital. The Delhi government is threatening to implement the odd-even scheme (in which cars with odd number plates ply on one day and those with even on the other) to reduce traffic pollution. And the hapless denizens of the city are rushing to the markets to buy air purifiers for their houses and cars, and masks for their faces when they venture out into the smog. 

It’s become an annual ritual now, this kind of thing. The days when the Delhi winter heralded crisp cool days with blazing blue skies and dappled sunshine in which we could all bask, are long over. Now the arrival of winter just heralds a spike in rates of respiratory illnesses, even as we hunker down in our homes, running our air purifiers through the day and anxiously checking the pollution levels on the counter to see if the damn thing is making any difference to the air in the room. Going for a walk or a run is a bad idea, medical experts tell us. And children are especially at risk, with their still underdeveloped lungs unable to cope with the pollutants in the air.

That’s how things stand today. And given the apathy of government agencies it seems unlikely that things will improve. After all, we have been hearing for years now that Punjab farmers will be given a special allowance that will compensate them for not burning their stubble, but using farm equipment to get the fields ready for the second sowing. But even though the sums involved are far from astronomical, neither the state nor the central government seems inclined to dip into its pockets and rustle up the sum. 

The Delhi government, to be fair, has undertaken some small steps to reduce air pollution. Industrial units have been asked to relocate or even shut down when the air quality gets very bad. Construction is brought to a halt during the months is which air pollution is at severe levels. And then, as I mentioned before, there is the odd-even scheme, that is pulled out every year around this time.

Does any of this make any difference? Frankly, it’s hard to tell one way or another. Government sources insist that the air quality would be even worse if they did not implement these measures. While sceptics scoff that this is the equivalent of put a band-aid on a gunshot wound and hoping that it will staunch the blood flow. 

Which is probably why all those of us who can afford to – both in terms of time and money – to get away from Delhi during this season, are doing just that. Some lucky ones escape to their holiday homes in the mountains or their second homes in some beach destination. Others take off just after Diwali – when the pollution level is at the highest – and spend as much time as they can in such holiday hotspots as Bangkok, Singapore, London, or even nearer home in Kerala or Goa.

But not everyone is fortunate enough to have these escape routes available to them. So what can people who are stuck in Delhi through these months do to deal with the pollution as they go about their daily lives? As someone who has done just that for many years now, here are some suggestions based on my own experiences.

1) Invest in good air purifiers for every room of your house. It will be expensive but well worth it in terms of what you save by way of health care. Remember to vacuum clean them every week (yes, that’s right, every week) and change the filters every year (or even sooner depending on how filthy they get). Keep the doors shut when you are running them, but don’t forget to air out the house once or twice a day or you will be breathing in stale air all day.

2) Plants are the best natural air purifiers. So buy a few pots of spider plant, aloe vera, ficus, bamboo plant (there are many others; Google it before heading out to the nursery) and place them in the rooms in which you spend the most time. 

3) If your job allows it, spend as much time indoors as possible. If your boss is willing, then work out of home for at least part of the week, so that your exposure to pollutants is limited. Don’t go for a walk or jog in the park. Head to the gym or just invest in a treadmill/cross trainer at home so that you can work out without venturing out.

4) And most important of all, don’t add to the air pollution. Don’t burst crackers on Diwali. Give your guard a space heater so he doesn’t have to light a little fire to keep him warm during those long winter nights. Use electric heaters rather than ‘sigris’ when you are entertaining. And even if your backyard looks like its crying out for it, don’t light any bonfires (no, not even on Lohri). 

When it comes to combatting air pollution, every little bit helps. So do your best to ensure that every breath you take is as healthy as possible. 

Breathe easy

This winter, treat yourself to some clean air – even if it is just over a short break

There was a time when I spent the entire year looking forward to the time when winter would finally come to Delhi. There was a special pleasure in melting some white butter on the first sarson da saag of the season, and scooping up all that creamy loveliness with a makki di roti. There was something magical about lighting a tiny little bonfire on the terrace and gathering around with friends and family. Or even just going for a long walk in Lodi Gardens, secure in the knowledge that you would not return home soggy with sweat.

Those days are long gone. Now the moment the mornings begin to get a little cool and the sun sets a little earlier, I begin to worry about just how bad the pollution will be this winter. Will the air purifiers, sprinkled liberally all through the house, be enough to ward off those almost-inevitable asthma attacks? Will I make it through the season without having to invest in another N99 mask, to slip on every time I step out of the house? And how many years will this particular winter take off my life?

Which is why the moment the weather starts to turn I begin to think of winter getaways that will whisk me away to healthier, less polluted climes. I dream of destinations where I can breathe in fresh air, where I can put my inhaler away and forget about it, and where my wheezing becomes a distant memory. 

If you are beginning to feel the same way, and can think of nothing better than to escape the gas chamber that is this city – and most others; Kolkata is just as polluted, and Mumbai only marginally less so – then here are a few suggestions to start you off on your winter destination hunt.

• If you are heading for the mountains then steer clear of overdeveloped and busy hill stations like Shimla and Nainital. You will be much better off going to smaller, less crowded places like Sattal, Bhimtal or even Ranikhet. What you lose in terms of quality of the accommodation, you will more than make up in the quality of the experience. You will finally be able to fill up your lungs with sweet mountain air, breathe in the freshness that blooms all around you, and exhale with relief.

• If you don’t mind travelling further, then the south has some stupendous hill stations that are worth exploring. Ooty is a perennial favourite with honeymooners, but my personal favourite is Munnar, with its verdant green and almost toy-town like beauty, though some of my friends are big fans of Coorg and Kodaikanal. 

• If beaches are your thing, then I would steer clear of Goa. This gets awfully overcrowded at this time of year and is horribly overpriced as well. You would be better served heading to the south. Your best bet would be Kerala, where you could squeeze in some Ayurvedic treatments as well as walks on the beach (though I myself am partial to the backwaters). Or you could head to Tamil Nadu, where the entire shoreline is dotted with lovely beach resorts where you can revive your tired lungs with those moisture-laden breezes from the Bay of Bengal. If you are willing to look beyond domestic beach destinations, then you can have your pick of Thai beach resorts, some of which may actually be cheaper than those in our own country. (If money is no object, then head to the Maldives.)

• If you prefer the buzz of city life to communing with nature, then there are several options in our immediate neighbourhood that won’t break the bank. Head out to Singapore, where you can shop to your heart’s content, eat the most marvelous food, and then dip your toes in the sand at Sentosa. If your budget stretches further afield, then this would be a good time to visit Portugal, which is warmer than the rest of Europe. Base yourself in Lisbon and then make day trips to explore Sintra, Cascais and other smaller towns. (If you’re a creature of habit who would rather head back to London or New York, then you can do that too; though, really, wouldn’t you want to expand your horizons?)

• If you’re a nature lover, then this is best time to head for the wild life reserves in India. Go in for a spot of tiger-watching in Ranthambore or Corbett National Park, try your luck at sighting the one-horned rhino in Kaziranga in Assam. The Bandipur National Park in Karnataka is a good place for elephant watching. And if birds are your thing then head to the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in Rajasthan. December is also a good time to hit Tanzania’s northern circuit where the Serengeti’s Great Migration is in full swing. Or you could head to Kenya, where the rains are just over and the scenery looks lush and green. 

To be honest, it doesn’t really matter which destination you pick. The important thing is to get away from Delhi and its awful air at this time of the year. 

I know, I know, you’ll have to come back soon and breathe in those noxious fumes all over again. But at least the worst will be over (we hope!) and your lungs will have had a bit of a respite. And you will have had a reminder of what clean air looks and feels like.

Winter is coming

But this time around, I’m not among those celebrating its arrival

Winter has always been my favourite time of year. The moment the temperatures begin to dip in the early morning and the darkness sets in early, my heart starts to soar. Winter is coming, I tell myself excitedly. Though not in a George RR Martin way, thank God!

This year, however, the start of winter has begun to feel a little apocalyptic. I came back from a short break to find Delhi engulfed in a smog so polluted that just breathing that air, I was reliably informed, was equivalent to smoking 50 cigarettes a day. For an asthmatic non-smoker like myself, that sounded like the kiss of death (quite literally).

So, suffice it to say, my reaction to the arrival of winter this time around had been a little bit different. Instead of celebrating the season by taking long walks in Lodhi Gardens, I have retreated to the sanctuary of my bedroom with three air-purifiers going at the same time, anxiously checking the counters to see if the PM 2.5 count was going any lower.

The only time I ventured out was to attend the wedding of one of my close friend’s daughter. And after every single function, I staggered back wheezing to my room, puffing away at my Asthalin inhaler as if my life depended on it (spoiler alert: it really does).

The good bit about all this is that I caught up on my reading, devouring Little Fires Everywhere by Celeste Ng and Ties by Domenico Starnone in double quick time (excellent books both, I could not recommend them more highly – but that’s the subject of an entirely different column). I also binge-watched the American TV series, This Is Us, weeping copiously all the way through (don’t let that put you off; it is a fabulous show). And I managed to get in a little exercise as well, working out on my cross-trainer to get my mandatory 30 active minutes every day.

So, compared to those who had to brave the streets and the dust and smoke of Delhi traffic, I didn’t do badly at all. And yet, through it all I was plagued by a vague sense of dissatisfaction, a nagging feeling of missing out on my favourite season of the year, as I sat barricaded in my room, breathing in the best air that money could buy.

My mind went back to winters past, to those halcyon days when Delhi was not a gas chamber, slowly but surely killing us all. I flashed back to my first years in the capital, when I lived in a barsati in Defence Colony, with tiny little rooms but a vast terrace that was transformed into party central the moment the cold set in. My friends and I would sit around a bonfire late into the night, drinking our poison of choice, eating whatever takeaway we had ordered in, talking, laughing, singing, and of course, in due course, dancing, the air crisp against our flushed faces. Good times.

Sunday afternoons were invariably spent in the homes of friends who were prosperous enough to have houses with gardens and backyards. The barbeque would be going, rustling up everything from kebabs to hot dogs, there would be pitchers of beer, sangria and margaritas at the ready (and mulled wine once the cold really set in), someone would be strumming on a guitar while the rest of us drifted along making desultory conversation, as we basked in the balmy sunlight. Soon the drinks would kick in and the lawn would be littered with people in varying degrees of wakefulness, until the soporific effect of the sun made most of us nod off. Siesta after fiesta, we used to call it.

Then, there were the weekend girly lunches my friends and I used to organize around this time of year at some open-air restaurant or the other. Though to be honest, these were less lunches and more gossip sessions, where a hundred reputations died a thousand deaths as we exchanged stories about the worlds of journalism, advertising and PR, which we all belonged to, our tongues suitably lubricated by lashings of Chardonnay. (Now that you mention it, I am beginning to see a pattern here…and yes, it involves alcohol!)

But my best memories are of spending lazy afternoons alone on my terrace, curled up on my wrought-iron sofa with a good book, with just a couple of oranges for company. No matter how carefully I peeled the oranges, a few drops of the juice always spilled on the book I was reading. And now, when I re-read one of them and see that tell-tale stain, it takes me back to that lovely sun-filled terrace where I spent so many happy hours breathing in that cold winter air.

It is these memories that keep me going now, as I huddle inside my air-purified room, fearing that venturing into the open will trigger yet another asthma attack. And with every puff of my inhaler I send up a prayer that one day soon, I will be able to relive these moments for real instead of just in my imagination.